Riga, Latvia // Focused Pursuit

It was November 2010 and I was living in Madrid, Spain. Anxious feet kept me ungrounded from my Spanish roots. There was too much of the world to see and I was keen on personally being as unseen as possible, moving too fast for real life to catch me. I never travelled with the same friends twice and took every opportunity to hop a £30 flight wherever it was heading whenever I could. There was something about the steady, laid back lifestyle of Madrid that made me want to run and I looked for every excuse to do just that.

I spent hours searching the internet for any reason, any blog, reference - something to pull me away. My criteria: I wanted to go somewhere I had never been before and somewhere that wouldn't take more than a few hours to get to. Easy. I would pull out a map of Europe and start punching in names of places into Google Images until I found something that struck my fancy: Kaunas, Rome, Berlin. I never knew what I was looking for, until I saw it and this time it was just a single photo. 

I found this picture of a gorgeous little street that looked like old Europe. I’m not sure what I mean but you’ll know too when you see it. I got that jolt in my gut. This was it, find this street. That was my next mission, and off I was. I bought a ticket, threw everything in a rucksack and headed to the airport.

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I arrived into the center of Riga, Latvia just as everyone was heading to work. It was grey, a chilly morning, threatening snow. I was exhausted, mapless but ready for whatever the day held. I chose a direction and started walking. 

As I walked, it slowly started to dawn on me that I should have looked at a map of the city to find more than my hostel. Any references to an old town, or a historic part of the city would have helped. But back then I had enormous faith in the universe. That no matter where I landed, if I found the street or not, the journey would have been worth it. It was the feeling of discomfort I craved. Any experience that would teach me, lead me to be stronger, and wiser, was worth committing myself wholeheartedly to.

I wandered actually for a shockingly short amount of time. Perhaps the Universe really was on my side that day - more likely I had chosen a really easy objective.

It hit me harder than the first time I saw the photo online, perhaps this time with a twinge of victory that I had actually made it. There it was, in all its splendor. I wandered from the end of the long street, a huge smile starting to spread across my face. I looked right and then left as if to find a wandering stranger to share this moment: “did you see?? I found it!!” but there was no one there. Eyes then unblinking, unwavering from the prize before me: I slowly swung my rucksack around, slowly unzipped the top and removed my camera as if any sudden movement would make this apparition vanish. 

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I stood in the middle of the empty street, alone, all the shops closed for some reason unapparent to me. I took my photo but it felt too easy, so I took a few more - just in case. This victory was won quickly.

As I walked down the street, past the central point of the photograph, turning every few steps still in disbelief. I began to mutter the words “what now?”. 

I walked up to the building that I had sought to take one final moment with it. And with that I turned right, down the next street to leave this moment behind me. As the distance between us increased, from the sky now dark the snow started to fall. I smiled to myself and thought:

I had accomplished what I had come for. That with a touch of direction and a bit of determination, anything is possible.

Hainan Island // Embracing Fear

Do you ever get that feeling: when you're in a new place and absorbed in your own thoughts. Someone's talking to you but it doesn't compute. Maybe they're speaking another language? Maybe you’re completely surrounded by .. well nothing recognizable. And suddenly you realize...you don't belong.
Your stomach drops.
F***.
What do I do?


It's these moments, more than any others, that I treasure. I can feel a toughness building inside me, like the calluses on the bottom of a hikers foot, or on a drummer's hand, or on the tips a violin players fingers. These moments where I'm overwhelmed by fear, I both learn something valuable about myself but also in how I react to the world around me.

I take the deepest breath I can muster. Hold it tight. Let it go. And am renewed.

 

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So. Rather than write about the sparkly parts of my trip to “secret China” (can you point to Hainan Island on a map? I couldn’t before this trip. Thus, secret China.), I'm going to drill down into a moment when I was most afraid, where I jumped right out of my skin, when I felt most alive, what I learned, and how I feel I’ve “leveled up”.

I spent a total of 13 days on the ground: 3 days (rushing around the visa office) in Hong Kong; 2 days sunbathing in Shimei Bay; followed by 3 days in (rural, surf-haven) Ri Yue Wan; 2 days in Baoting County where we climbed Seven Fairy Mountain and swam in natural hot springs; and 3 days in Sanya (one of two cities on the island). An epic journey, and one where the lessons were vast and frequent.

On day two of our stay in chilled Ri Yue Wan my travel companion and Hainan import Louise took me on a 3hr hike through the jungle to find the best coffee on the island in a town called Xing Long (兴隆). A town where foreigners are absolutely foreign (because it’s impossible to get to) and to where I'm not sure I could have ever found without my personal travel guide.

The thing about China is a lot of it has been built (or at the initial stages of being built, when construction for whatever reason quickly stopped) and so there are roads which go... well, everywhere. Even the tiniest of rural villages have roads taking you from one hut to the next.

The thing about a road that runs through the jungle, is that 95% of the time you don’t have to worry about much > only really about getting sun stroke, being hit by a didi, or being screamed “HELLO” at by passers by (if you happen to actually pass anyone). These roads are pretty safe, and pretty easy to travel on! Unfortunately the other (albeit rare) 5% you have to worry about literally everything else: wild dogs, wild boars, spiders as big as your face, snakes as big as a didi, and no one being able to hear you scream. Great. Cool. Wonderful. I’ll just hold my breath til it’s over then, shall I?

On this particular hike (the one towards coffee) we fortunately only came across one of those things. It was a gorgeous, not too warm and not too wet day. We set off early to avoid the afternoon heat. Louise and I chatted about life, work, about home. About who we felt we are as people, what we find most valuable, how it evidently wasn’t the rainy season anymore and how I could have probably brought my favourite trainers without worry. And suddenly Louise stopped - dead in her tracks - she turned back, and her face had pure terror across it. I stopped and began to turn.

My stomach dropped. I held my breath: “what is it? should we go back?”, I asked.

... She laughed “what? back the two hours we’ve come?” Typical Louise. Laughing, at a time like this!

“Well, I don’t know!” I said exasperated.

There was a pack of wild dogs, up ahead, to the right, standing in a ditch on the side of the road.
What do we do? I had never come across wild dogs before. And, I was afraid of dogs on leashes passing me on the sidewalk in New York Cities, on the best of days.

We couldn’t go back. It was too far. And moreover, the dogs had seen us! Turning back would be the the worst of the ideas on the (hypothetical) table and there was no way around. No, we would have to walk past them. But how to do that when I was already frozen in fear?

Shit. I was still holding my breath. Ok. Breath out. Breath back in. Ok, we would just have to walk past the pack of dogs. Sure, yea. Fine. Right?

We started to walk forward. Slowly.

I wasn’t blinking. Could I do this?

Turns out, the Universe was on our side. We could hear a car driving up behind us. (Of all moments on this mostly uninterrupted walk - Hallelujah!!) We had about 5 seconds to act. We were going to pass the ditch right as the car did, using the car as a makeshift wild dog shield.
Just as we passed the ditch the car sped off. So I began to speed up. We just need to get another 20 feet, around the bend in the road - and then we’ll be fine! Louise grabbed my arm ... hard. She jerked me back. “Dude, relax,” she said. “Don’t speed up.” My heart was racing. All I wanted to do was run all the way to Xing Long. As fast as I could. And never look back. “Ok,” I said. My pace slowed. I fixed my gaze ahead and started to count (in my head) “one. two. three. four. five...” one for every step I took. “Twenty, twenty-one, twenty-two..”

Eventually we made it around the bend, up the road, around a second bend. My body un-tensed. I started to breathe normally again.
 

In the end, we made it to Xing Long. We had several dark, rich coffees and reflected on the day: “glad we hadn’t started later, in the heat of the day!” There wasn’t much chat about what had happened, and by midday the wild dogs, now miles behind us, felt a bit like a dream.

Louise didn’t tell me until days later that the first time she encountered a pack of wild dogs in China had actually been another 20min up the road. She didn’t mock me for my fear, or for the way I had reacted. We just continued on our way. Unadulterated. Perhaps a bit more focused on the final mark.

Fear is a funny thing, isn’t it? It can seize all of your senses, overwhelm you to the point of collapse. Fear changes people. It builds them up or breaks them down. Some fear is impossible to overcome. Some fear is bearable. Some unrecognizable to others. We can use tools to work through it. I personally find that knowledge is power. I coach myself through: "Xann, I know you're afraid of heights but dude there's a gate between you and the ledge." "I know this latter feels rusted and unhinged but if you hold on tight and move quickly, you'll be on the solid ground in no time." "Just walk past the wild dogs, don't acknowledge them or look their way. They don't exist.” “If the dogs come after us what could you use as a weapon? Your rucksack?” “Next time carry a stick with you. Ok. Noted."

Coming head to head with our fears is inevitable. To be honest I hadn’t expected to face so many of mine in one trip. I wasn’t prepared. But I suppose we never are. I’m grateful that it happened the way it did. Before this trip I had packed myself away, tucked into a cave of safety. I had my routine, my life compartments neatly stacked in perfect, tidy rows. This trip shattered my sense of safety and reliance on those compartments built up around me. It reminded me of my humanity and woke me up from a hazy dazy dream I was living in. The fear shattered the glass box I had hid myself away in. As the glass started to crash around me. I took the deepest breath I could muster. Held it tight. Let it go.


And was renewed.

 

Alaska // The Road to Somewhere

Have you ever taken a really huge breath, the kind that fills every part of you, you hold it tight, lips sealed shut, and right when you are about to burst, you jump?

That’s what this felt like.

But instead of shutting my eyes, afraid of what comes next, I kept em wide open and watched in utter awe as the world began to glisten around me.

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I had hopped on a plane to Anchorage, Alaska from NYC to visit a man I had only spent 30 face-to-face minutes with, nine-whole months earlier, about to road trip into the abyss with two other complete strangers. On the surface it sounded careless and ill advised but sometimes you just have a feeling. This was going to be better than OK, something at the other end was going to change me. My heart pounded the whole way there. I felt like I was opening a Narnia door to some new world and I would either die, or finally start to really LIVE.

I think I must have held my breath that whole first 12hours: the first embrace, the stuffed bear in the airport, getting into the car, getting to the hostel, meeting my other travel mates in the darkened backyard, the homemade wooden schvitz - it’s all a clear yet hazy memory of everything that came before. Before everything that came next.

It was that next morning when my eyes opened that something new had awakened within me. I walked outside to feel the bright sun across my face.

I closed my eyes. One long breath in, and another out.

Here I was on the other side of the door to Narnia.

It had all begun.

I walked shoeless in the grass behind the kitchen to full soak this moment in. The start of my new beginning. I was incandescent.

We piled her up, hopped in ole Luxury (pictured right) and hit the road.

There's a point you reach with uncertainty when you let everything go. I remember sitting in the back seat, before we had hit the highway. I had begun to feel nervous again, that nervousness when you jump the second time: now you know you'll make it, and the water below is cool and refreshing, and worth the jump. You still have to coax yourself into it but this time it only takes a few seconds and off you pop.

The moment I let go, this time, without looking back, was when the music came on. Corey and Nessa agreed, "we have just the album for this moment."

I watched as the scenes passed me by, trying to soak up every second. I wanted to remember this feeling of letting go fully. Of sinking into the old seat cushions, the wind flowing in and out of the cracked car windows.

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As Gobbledigook began to stream through the speakers I took my shoes off, and pushed back further into the seat, settled in and ready for the long drive ahead.

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When I listen to Festival from that album, I can still see it: everything laid before us, elegantly bare.

It fills me all the way to the brim, every single time. I close my eyes and take that long breath in and breath out. I can feel the chill morning air against my cheeks.

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There are things in this world that are bigger than us. Just look at this view, mountains laid out, one after another. With the right perspective those very large things, towering over us, can in fact teach us something. For me, that something was that walking through that scary door, may just lead to paradise.

Trust your gut. Trust it fully.

Trust it all the way to narnia.

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We drove 185miles eastward, until the highway gave way to a 90 degree turn south.

 

We drove to the end of the road.

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I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to explain in words what this trip meant to me. It may have taken months to take root but it sparked new growth.

Napping in that hammock, bathing in a grey green rolling river, sprinting down the side of a mountain, walking up a glacier, jumping into a car with a pack of strangers.

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I let go of everything that trip, everything I had been holding onto so tightly, everything that was holding me back. The edges of the box I had been shoved into, my comfort, my security, I climbed over them. I let it all go in exchange for a new start. I came out of hibernation, wounds nearly healed, ready to see what the world had next, what other doors could, maybe be lying ahead of me.

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London // Finding Home

I arrived at Heathrow airport on the morning of Tuesday, May 11th. I had been patiently waiting for this moment for months, and I was finally here! The darkness of winter had consumed me and this flight into the unknown was the only light guiding me forward.

The decision to go was based on a passing conversation in the autumn of 2009. "Fancy coming to London for the summer?" a friend had asked me in the first few weeks of term. "Sure!" I replied, and although our collaborative plans had been discussed no further, I couldn't get the idea out of my head. I didn't know anyone there, but something had taken root inside me: this was surely the next stop on my journey. I found a room to sublet and an internship and from there everything was pretty much set with no plans other than to just figure the rest of it out when I arrived.

The whole morning was a blurr. I mean, I remember sitting in my seat on the plane, eyes glued to view out my window. I held my breath as we descended, eagerly (and rather nervously) awaiting everything that came next. We landed and the next thing I remember was standing on the Piccadilly Line rushing towards central London. 

I was clutching the pole next to me, becoming more hyperly aware of everything around me as the minutes ticked on: the way people were dressed, the way people interacted, how they were sitting, the passing scene outside the train car. It was a grey morning, but the sun peaked through just as we came out of the tunnel into the light. 

I scanned the entire train car. A smile began to creep across my face. I closed my eyes, took a huge deep breath, and as I let it out whispered to myself: “I’m home.”

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I can't really explain it. I really don't know how I knew but something about the air around me, the people, the comfort, the freedom: I had found my happy place. Something that was entirely mine.

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